We went to Chicago and this is my impression of our trip there. It is long but has some moments of clarity, and I guess that’s what all blogging and story telling is about. Those of you who complete the marathon, I thank you. Those of you who don’t, I understand. Most of the things I post here on The Talking Wall is from the vaults. This was written over the last three days. So it is fresh but it is also not worked over. In any case hope you like it.
Chicago’s pulse is steady, waiting for you to make your first move in a gracious kind of way.
May 2014
Good news, Grace and I are adorable. We were on the plane to Chicago and sat together even though our tickets had us apart. We figured all we needed was a less than full plane, or maybe someone who wouldn’t mind sitting somewhere else. I was sitting in 38E, the seat that wasn’t mine. The plane filled up and at last it appeared no one else was boarding.
“Looks like that’s it,” Grace said.
“Oh, cool. I don’t want to not sit with you.”
“Yes, Dear, me too.”
“Uh-oh, here comes a guy.”
“But I think there’s still a few seats before yours.”
“Where?”
“Up front there.”
“Hope so.”
But he kept moving closer and closer. He was a middle aged Asian American in a sports and a tired dour countenance.
“Oh darn, looks like he’s the guy,” Grace said.
I decided to surrender before he had to approach his seat and look at me and look at his ticket until I said, “Oh sorry” or something along those lines.
“Thirty-eight E?” I said, rising out of my seat.
He looked at me as if I had offered him a strychnine cocktail.
“No,” he snapped, scowling, “I’m not Mr. Lee!”
“Thirty-eight E !” Grace and I shouted.
“Oh,” he laughed, “no. I’m up a couple more I think.”
He moved past us, a little less dour, chuckling at something.
“Hope we’re not too much of a bother,” Grace said to the young woman next to us at the window seat.
“Oh look,” she said, like we were kids hoping not to get bumped out of line to see Santa Claus, “you two are fine. Nothing to worry about at all. You two are just adorable.”
“Well, thank you,” Grace said, smiling.
“We’re adorable, Dear,” I said.
“Yes, Dear,” Grace replied.
That’s right, we’re adorable. I suddenly and finally felt 60 years old, but it was ok. We have, after all, been together since Jimmy Carter was president and the world was a different place, and we do have an endearing back-and-forth to our conversations and we did want to sit together.
A moment later the rightful owner of seat 38E approached us, saw we were an adorable couple and gladly took my assigned seat. I found myself believing both she and the woman next to us in the window seat were from the Midwest and from that I knew we would have a wonderful time there.
The first thing I noticed about Chicago was it made me start humming Led Zeppelin tunes. First nine days I hummed the likes of “Misty Mountain Hop” and “Kashmir.” Actually I didn’t even notice I was doing it, but Jeremy, my son-in-law, did. He knows I don’t like Led Zeppelin and he laughed about it. Even that didn’t stop me. I hummed different Zep tunes all week.
“Been a long time, been a long lonely, lonely, lonely time….”
“You’re doing it again.”
“Huh. That’s weird.”
“Yeah, right?”
“Never liked that band.”
“And yet…”
“Here I am.”
I can’t explain it. And the humming stopped when we touched down in Fresno. Shouldn’t I have been humming “25 or 6 to 4” or some other Chicago tune? But I didn’t, not even when I saw the CTA logo on the trains and buses. Maybe Chicago, the city, is tired of being connected to Chicago, the rock band. Maybe I should delete that part of it and name drop Kanye West; he’s from Chicago, but I don’t anything about him. I couldn’t identify a single tune of his. I would mention Paul Butterfield but does anyone still know who he is? And anyway, when he passed away he was living in North Hollywood. So I’ll stick with the Chicago reference, and anyway, the point is I had Led Zeppelin tunes in my head and was humming their awful tunes. And the Zep consciousness was not because Chicago is some rough and tumble city. It might be a rough and tumble city, but that wasn’t my impression of it. My impression would begin with the buildings and houses. Sharp, clean, tight. That’s not rough and tumble. And it’s not a matter of toughness. It’s strength. Bricks laid down solid and orderly aren’t budging. They don’t need to budge. Some of the apartment buildings are set not parallel to the street but angled back a bit on one side, and the effect is like something that borders on defiance, but in a quiet way. The buildings and the houses weren’t built to endure the worst winter in the history of the Midwest, after going through 50, 60 or 70 before this last one; they were built to be oblivious to winters. The buildings are not crazed, frenzied, chattering linebackers; they are lineman, stolid and certain. And the churches are built so high and so wide that it was as if they expected God Himself to attend and they didn’t want Him to stoop or hunch when He entered the church. The spires point straight up to heaven in the event you needed to know which way to go. The windows of the churches are looking at all who pass, watching like a gentle giant, the message in the window eyes of the magnificent churches is “God is,” and the churches seem to be everywhere and the smaller ones are no less majestic.
Chicago, the city and the suburbs, and its people, have a kind of acceptance of things. It’s a patience that you don’t see in other big cities. New York City is excitable and impatient and has a pulse that always revved. In LA cool is king and they don’t want you to know their pulse because everyone there is auditioning some way or another. But Chicago’s pulse is steady, waiting for you to make your first move in a gracious kind of way.
There are churches everywhere but it doesn’t look or feel like an obsession. It feels natural. The only other kind of building in Chicago that appears more often than churches— well except for the astounding office buildings Downtown—would be places to eat. Somewhere in suburban Chicago I saw three restaurants in a row, with two more restaurants across the street, and it was midweek and they were all full of patrons. In Chicago meat is the meal. Steak, sausage, hot dog, burger, pork or lamb chops—they ignore the more recent attitude about too much meat and too many heavy meals and eat it all with a unabashed vigor. Wherever we went to eat the servers were very enthused and overjoyed that we were dining at their place. For a moment I thought the woman at a burger joint was going to hop the counter high five us if not hug us.
“How you doin’ how you doin’ how you doin’ toDAY?”
I thought she was singing some kind of song and tried to place it.
“Pretty good thanks,” Grace replied.
“That’s great, that’s wonderful. You gonna have a hamburger today? They are fanTAStic!”
“I was thinking about a hot dog. How are they?”
“Lemme tell you, the hot dogs are out of this world. You just can’t go wrong. Get a hamburger, it’s great. Get hot dog, it’s great too.”
“That’s good,” I said, “because I think I’m gonna have a hamburger.”
“That’s perfect because everybody gonna be happy.”
She clapped her hands like there was a jumping gospel tune playing that no one else could hear.
“Great,” Grace said.
“Where you from?”
“Fresno, California.”
“All right. That’s all right. Yeah, I got some cousins in California. Don’t see them much though. I’m so glad you came to visit Chicago.”
“We’re happy to be here.”
“Oh you gonna have a good time. Now just go ahead and sit wherever you like and you hotdog and hamburger will be ready in a little while.”
The thing was, she was real. She was happy we were visiting Chicago, she was happy to take our order, and she believed she had some delicious, wonderful food to offer us. There is something real in the heart of Chicago. They are a city of true believers. I kept thinking, “I’m in America, now.” Not Rockwell’s America, but something better, something more real. But real in a good way, not a gritty way. In other states they’ll take your order and stay whatever is on the script in the training manual. Everywhere we went in Chicago people were real. They believed in things like work, service, food, sincerity and civility. They were all colors, all faiths, all backgrounds, but they had that same grounded, guilelessness about them.
I think it was Monday night when Sam, Jeremy’s Uncle and our friend from well, I’ve know Sam since we were in our early teens, took Jeremy and Kelsey and Grace and I out to dinner. Sam’s generosity is the stuff of family legend. We found ourselves at one of the finest steakhouses in a city famous for fine steakhouses. The meal was fit for royalty. I can say without much reservation that eating there may have been one of the very best places I have ever dined. Sam was in fine fettle. I believe Sam would be a great talk show host. You can’t help but dial in and follow along to his high-spirited, informative, wide-ranging, often hilarious occasionally ribald, running commentary. Sam loves life. Sam wants to wrestle the world and expects to emerge victorious and if he doesn’t he will figure it was better than a life of caution. When you’re rolling with Sam you’d better be up for good times, you’d better be quick-witted enough to keep up with him, and you’d better appreciate and not have the slightest trace of disdain for “kef,” an Armenian word for, like a party or good times. Everything that Sam loves and everything that Sam hates he does with conviction and passion. He is a man fully alive, living life and getting something out of every moment. He has been this remarkable person all of the 45 years that I’ve known him. The thing is this: the restaurant, the food, the service, the wine, the Chicago skyline at night were all fantastic and Sam wanted us to have that memory. I am grateful for it and the only thing that tops it is the fellowship, joy and love.
We had lunch with our friends Tom and Carolyn and their daughter Brittany at a Turkish Deli. We had lahmajoon and it was pretty much the same. I can’t remember if they called it lahmajoon or not. We had something Turkish that was bread with melted cheese on it. It essentially was pizza without sauce. It was good though. We heard about it from someone at Jeremy and Kelsey’s church, although we were advised not to go there because it would be giving money to Turks. I think that’s when we figured we would go. We just don’t function that way like it some tribal feud or something. I think Grace may have even that we were Armenian but the man behind the counter just smiled and nodded. I’m not at war. I don’t want to carry anger and bitterness with me. And I’m not waiting until the day that the Turkish people and the Turkish government acknowledge their crime. I’m pretty sure that day will never come, anyway. I do know that my mom’s side of the family was hidden from the Turkish Army by a Turkish neighbor. Because of that man, 119 years later we sat in plastic white chairs at a small card table in a designated dining area with Tom and Carolyn and Bridget and told stories and jokes and broke bread maybe not with Turks but in their deli. The Bulgers are really my first impression of Midwestern hospitality. They are the most tenderhearted people you would ever want to meet. Soft-spoken, humble, kind, thoughtful. Tom Bulger me helped become a better person just by hanging out with him. He helped me expand my definition of cool. As a kid cool was hip, with it, doing and knowing the latest “in” thing. But I came to see the awesome coolness in Tom. I began calling him the coolest man on the planet. Finally he got me to stop when one day he said, “Jesus is the coolest man on the planet, Brother Jack.” Of course he was right. The Bulgers though are very, very cool people. In any event, it was a good day. I just want to say that If I knew that Turkish man’s name who saved my Grandmother’s life that day, I would have given his name to my son.
After lunch we went to a local ice cream parlor and I put my dietary restrictions on hiatus and had a bowl of banana fudge ice cream. It was delicious, even if it caused a light breakout of the guilts. It was a perfect day.
There was also an Armenian deli and an Assyrian deli in another suburb (there were so many suburbs I couldn’t keep track of them) and we went to the Assyrian one first. Grace took my picture standing in front of it, and I was supposed to take her picture in front of the Armenian one but I forgot. In any case I didn’t really see that much difference between the two except the items in the Assyrian store were a little higher in price. I didn’t tell the clerk that I was Assyrian but I think Grace engaged him in conversation and I think it turned out that his mom was Armenian. I found that it was difficult for me to imagine a town with an impressive representation of Assyrian-Americans. There are only 4 million of us world-wide but in Chicago there are enough Assyrians that they have there own deli right across the street from an Armenian one and a few blocks from some Eastern European delis. God bless America! Dad used to say that there were lots of Assyrians in Turlock, California and much more in Chicago. I recently found out that Assyrians have been in Chicago for over 100 years. I have always considered Assyrians the smallest of minorities. When I was growing up, all the Assyrians I knew were relatives. Over half a century later Kelsey is approached at the local gym and asked these words, “Are you Assryian?” When she told us that story on Skype one night, I was struck by the notion that, well, that we have distinguishable features. I always thought that we looked pretty much the same as Armenians but apparently not.
Of course I wasn’t going to Chicago and not attend a Cubs game and that’s what Jeremy and I did. Wrigley Field is a wonderful ballpark. My loyal to Dodger Stadium has been a blind one, having only been to Candlestick and Yankee Stadium and the stadium for the San Diego Padres. I didn’t like Candlestick, I disliked Yankee Stadium even more. The stadium for the Padres was beautiful, a great place to see a game, even if they did name it after a pet store. The thing about Dodger Stadium though is it started out as a beautiful, comfortable, sharp-looking place to gather and watch a baseball game and the last few years or so it is more akin to a kind of sports oriented Disneyland. It’s no longer a baseball game for baseball fans; it’s an event for event seekers looking to make the scene. And the hot dogs, which were worthy of Vin Scully’s praise, became skinny, ugly and awful. But at Wrigley, it’s still 1963. Or maybe even 1951 or 1947. The people there go to see baseball. The team has not had a championship season in 100 years, but the fans have a most notable and admirable kind of loyalty, and the hot dogs are good and you didn’t have to take out a second mortgage to buy one. The people of Chicago have a self-awareness makes the keeping of traditions alive. It was a perfect day for baseball—sunny but comfortable with high clouds and a little bit of a breeze to keep the stars and stripes moving languidly. The Yankees were in town and it was a full house. The Cubs jumped out early to a 2-0 lead and there was a buzz in the place. There were quite a few Yankee fans there and they sat watching the game with puzzled looks on their faces. But in the row in front of us were to young men in their Cubs gear. The one with the goatee turned to his bald-headed friend.
“Dah fuck, man,” he said contentedly, “dogs and a beer.”
“Yeah,” his friend replied.
And they tapped their plastic glasses of Bud and toasted all things good at a midweek afternoon ball game at venerable Wrigley Stadium.
The Yanks climbed back in the game in the 8th and tied it. The crowd got quiet and the weather changed. The heat pressed us, hinting that summer was on its way. I thought of “Raisin in the Sun” when Ruth says that if you don’t like the weather in Chicago, just wait a while and it will change. While we were there the weather was hot, warm, clammy, cool, coolish and cold—sometimes all in the same day. I’ll get to the thunderstorms in a little bit.
The game went into extra innings. The closers on both teams weren’t that good and it appeared that neither team seemed very interested in winning the game. We got to the sixth hour of the game and we were planning to meet Grace and Kelsey for dinner and it was getting pretty deep into 6 o’clock. It was a tough call to make because Jeremy is a Yankees fan and I had a strong feeling that the Yankees were going to win it. Not that the Cubs didn’t have their chances—they had the bases loaded a couple of times—but there was just that feeling that was present in the crowd after the Yankees tied it. I had to call it even though the odds were against it going on much longer. It was one of those things where if you leave in the 13th and it goes on another 5 or 6 innings you feel like you did the right thing, but there is also the dread that the exciting finish will happen while you’re just outside the ballpark, and well, we were on the train when Jeremy checked the score and said, “The Yankees just scored two runs,” and even though the Cubs still had their last at bat, I said, “That ought to be enough.” We missed the end of the game by 15 minutes. We had a great time and I hope Jeremy has forgiven me.
We ate that night at place called Blind Faith. The heat from the last half of the baseball game had dissipated and it was cool and comfortable again. We sat outside. Blind Faith was a vegetarian restaurant. My second guess was it had something to do with the Eric Clapton and Steve Winwood band from 1969. My first guess was that it took Blind Faith to open a vegetarian restaurant in Chicago. The waitress was gregarious and genuine. I asked her to tell the story of the tattoo of a hammer she had on her arm and she told it. Not that that’s proof of her gregarious and genuine nature, but in any case it didn’t bother her that I had asked. She was in a dance troupe and some of them got a hammer tattoo to represent their unity, although others chose not to.
The food was excellent and the blessings were even better. We hadn’t seen Kelsey and Jeremy in their new digs and it had been four months. They were happy with their new station in life and happy to hang out with us, and just happy overall. Everyone was sampling everyone else’s meal. We laughed and joked and took pictures. The waitress came to check on us.
“Tell me one more story,” I said to her.
“What is it?” she asked, smiling.
“Tell the story of how the place got its name.”
“Blind Faith? Oh, you’re in luck. I just heard the story last week.”
“Ok, great.”
“A lot of old, uh well, older people think it’s that band, Blind Faith?”
“Now, I have to say that’s not what I thought. Well, it was the second thing, but not the first.”
“Well, what happened was the two original guys got together and took out a huge loan.”
“Right.”
“And it was like 30 years ago and there was no such thing as a vegetarian restaurant, I mean, in Chicago?”
“Ok.”
“And they were like, what are we crazy? Finally one of them said, no it’s just blind faith.”
“That was my first guess.”
“Really?”
“Yeah, because Blind Faith, I mean they only did one album.”
“And then they broke up.”
“Exactly, they…”
“All right, Dear,” Grace said.
“Well thank you for telling us the story. And the other one, too.”
“Oh sure, no problem.”
I believed her, too, that it was no problem.
Oh, about the thunderstorm. We were having dinner with our friends Fred and Nancy. I have known them for 40 years and 30 years ago they moved to Chicago. It is one of those friendships that even if in has been a a bunch of years since we last saw each other, the conversation and the friendship picks up wherever it left off. It doesn’t always work out that way but in the case of Fred and Nancy, I’m glad it did. So we’re in a place called Chinese Bistro in a strip mall. I was thinking what makes a Chinese restaurant on a strip mall a bistro? Don’t bistros have French origins? Or doesn’t bistro really mean “we’re giving ourselves hip creds in a downtown area”? Maybe they play jazz and serve wine? They weren’t in a downtown area though. Turned out to be a Chinese restaurant, a better than average one. They did serve wine but we didn’t have any. No jazz that I remember.
When we got there Fred and Nancy had already ordered hors d’oeuvres, which was good because I was hungry and we don’t usually order hors d’oeuvres because we think of them as the meal before the meal and don’t want to add to the bill and dull our appetites for dinner at the same time. It was ok though. Like a really rare treat. We were having a great time catching up on our respective life journeys—the kids, their adult lives, and all the changes—when I looked out the window to the parking lot and God had left the bathtub faucet running. It was gushing rain and the parking lot was turning into a a swimming pool outlined with cars.
“What the heck!” I said.
“I was wondering if it was going to rain,” Grace said.
“Don’t worry,” Nancy said.
“It’s pretty common here,” Fred added.
“Yeah,” Nancy said, and reached for some pot stickers.
“But I mean, look at it,” I said.
“It’ll stop before dinner’s over,” Fred said, waving at it as if it were inconsequential.
We ate a delicious dinner, featuring a lamb chow mein, and told stories both old and new for another hour. Fred was right; it rained for 15 minutes and then stopped and then when we went to the parking lot it was as though it had never rained at all. On the way back to Jeremy and Kelsey’s though nature put on a light show. The lightning was spectacular, right in front of us and not just one bolt but a crazed array, like a big lady’s varicose veins, a mile wide. Never saw anything like it in California. In bed that night I had the side next to the window and late, late at night, at 3 in the morning, there was more lightning. I watched it through the window. My heart was beating slow and steady but there was something else moving through me that I couldn’t figure out. In my sleepy mind I made it related to the lightning. I had a sense of peace and fell back asleep.
Oak Park, Illinois is the birthplace of Ernest Hemingway. We decided visiting the house he was born in was something good to do. I taught A Farewell to Arms for years and years and more years after that. I didn’t stop teaching it, even when I didn’t have enough readers to get a class conversation going. Finally, the last four years that I was a high school English teacher I shut it down because even the handful of readers I had in a given class wouldn’t or couldn’t get in to it. I don’t know if they changed or I changed or society changed, but it wasn’t the novel that changed. It is brilliant and it is both simple and complex, and that is what I always liked about it, I guess. I also taught “A Clean Well Lighted Place,” mostly because I liked it so much in college and hoped that they would see what I saw in it. In any case I like Hemingway and his stories, especially A Farewell to Arms, are a part of me and like the Sgt. Pepper album, always will be.
There was the museum and a block away there was the house. We walked into the museum and met Claire, the docent. She was dressed comfortably and looked like a fifth grade teacher on a field trip. She took a shine to us almost immediately.
“I’m so glad you came in today. How’s the weather today, is it warming up? It’s cool in here.”
I didn’t tell her that we had left our ice tea outside hidden behind a pillar of the museum when we saw the No Drinks Allowed sign. Didn’t want to throw away our half full, just purchased drink and odds were good it would still be there when we got back and no one would disturb or discard it where we had placed it.
“We’re glad to be here,” I said.
“I’m Claire. Welcome to the Hemingway Museum. The house is just block the block a ways. You can come and go as you please. The house tour begins every hour on the hour until 4 o’clock.”
“I’m Grace and this is my husband, Jack.”
“Wonderful. Do you like Hemingway? I began reading Hemingway when I was just a teenager. Fourteen years old. I read most of his work before I came here. My favorite is Moveable Feast. It’s beautiful. His days in Paris.”
“I haven’t read that one. A Farewell to Arms is my favorite.”
“He was a high school English teacher. He taught that one.”
“Yes, I sure did. They loved it, too.”
“That is wonderful. You know I just may have a surprise for you.”
“A surprise?” Grace said.
“We like surprises,” I said.
“Yes, I may have a surprise. Now tickets are $11, but you get to see the museum and the house as well. You say you taught Hemingway?”
“I did. Farewell to Arms, and some of the short stories. “A Clean, Well-Lighted Place,” “Big Two-Hearted River.”
“Oh yes, I may very well have a surprise.”
“That’d be great,” Grace said.
I had forgotten the names of the other ones. One was “Hills Like White Elephants,” and the other was “The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber.” I fell into a haze trying to remember the titles. Claire turned her attention to Grace.
“Were you a teacher, too?”
“I am a teacher. I’m still working. Jack retired just last year. I’m working three more years.”
“Yes, it just may be a very nice surprise. Do you teach Hemingway?”
“Well,” Grace said.
“Well,” I said.
“I…I may have touched on some of his ideas.”
“She…” I said.
“I’m not an English teacher. I’m a Home Economics major and I teach a Careers in Education Class,” Grace said.
“For kids who want to become teachers. She’s a very effective teacher,” I said.
“Very nice,” she said, “and are you a senior citizen?”
Grace and I looked at each other.
“I’m 59,” Grace said.
“Ah-huh. Now have you seen the t-shirts?”
We went over to the shelf and found Old Man and the Sea and For Whom the Bell Tolls, but not A Farewell to Arms. I was a little crestfallen.
“They’re nice,” I said as we went back to where Claire stood.
“Well, the surprise is that when we have someone such as yourself, a teacher who taught Hemingway,well we are so glad to hear that and his work still have merit of course 80 years later. When that happens, I cover the cost of your admission ticket.”
“Well, you… I mean that’s very nice. Wow.”
“Thank you,” Grace said.
“Oh, you’re welcome. I’m glad to do it. Someone teaching Hemingway, you know.”
I immediately began thinking of it as my last retirement perk as we walked from one display to another. I still have gift cards for restaurants and bookstores that I haven’t finished using though. A documentary was playing loudly in the background and I heard the narrator reading, “I felt myself rush bodily out of myself and out and out and out….” It was the passage where Frederic is wounded when their trench was hit by a mortar shell he feels his soul come out of his body and he dies for a moment but then his soul slides back into his body. I never failed to read that section to every class that was assigned that novel. It was authentic because Hemingway had lived it and captured it in prose perfectly. I felt good that I had picked a page to read to my students that the documentary makers also thought was one of his very best passages. I sat in Hemingway’s chair at Hemingway’s typewriter and Grace took a picture. Grace also took a picture of the two of us in front of the “In Love and War” poster, a movie I used to show the students to try to teach perspective. It was the real life love story of Ernest and Agnes as opposed to the fictional counterparts, Fred and Kat. The difference is amusing but I could never quite get the kids to see it. Oh well. I picked up our drink on the way out. I know it was unmolested because when I set it down I made a mental note of which way the logo faced.
We were hungry so we walked a couple of blocks to get something to eat. I had stir-fry chicken without the chicken and it was good. Grace had something equally tasty. It sounds silly but we sat outside and took pictures of each other. I got this one picture of her that is perfect. She is looking directly into the camera, smiling, content, secure, and very, very lovely. She does not age. One of these days a stranger will say to her, “Oh, you’re taking your dad out to lunch, how nice!”
We walked three blocks back to Hemingway’s house, arriving a few minutes before the three o’clock tour. Our tour guide was a very nervous woman who fretted because there were 13 of us, and only one of her. Apparently he co-worker had not shown up for work yet. She apologized and explained the situation about a half a dozen times. The tour was interesting but we were getting tired and 14 of us upstairs in a tiny bedroom with no air conditioning isn’t something you want to do for very long. I did pick up some tidbits about Hemingway’s life that shed light of his writing. His mother’s side was very religious, while his father’s side engaged in secular, questionable things like drinking, smoking and card-playing. That was the gist of it, anyway. You get that push me, pull you feel in A Farewell to Arms and many of the short stories. Also, while he did grow up in a very nice suburb, Hemingway was also walking distance to the woods and a river and often went hunting and fishing with his grandfather, which would explain all the outdoors stuff in his stories. My impression of the Hemingway side was a kind of Teddy Roosevelt bravado. I was satisfied with what we gleaned about his life as a child and we left before the nervous woman got any more nervous. We were close to the Frank Lloyd Wright home and studio and we intended to go but we felt tired and as we drove by it I sang, “So long, Frank Lloyd Wright.” We’ll be back.
I took Jeremy to the record store. I picked out Don McLean and a few others. Jeremy picked some out, too. When we were ready to go I reached for his records.
“No,” he said, “it’s ok. I’ll pay for mine.”
“Yours?”
“Yeah. What you have there? Don McLean, eh?”
“I got these for you and Kelsey.”
“What? Don’t you have a record player?”
“Heck no. Not since Bush Senior was president.”
“Well, we’ll get you one.”
“What? I came to the record store today to buy you and Kelsey some records. Now gimmie those.”
“Thanks, Jack. I really appreciate it.”
For lunch we picked the trashiest, grubbiest looking Chinese restaurant dive we could find. It was so dingy and rough looking not even Robert De Niro’s scruffiest, low-life character would not have gone in there. We love these kinds of places and our wives definitely don’t. It was awesome though. The eggrolls were so ossified they could have been used as nun-chucks. My vegetable chow mein was stale and the rice was crunchy and swimming in grease. The patrons were suspect, especially since I asked one when we first walked in if the food was good and he nodded his head in affirmation vigorously.
We were back in the same suburb the next day and when Grace and Kelsey went to a dress shop Jeremy and I went back to the record store. When the women caught with us, I bought a Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young album for Kelsey and she took a picture of me holding it up like it’s an archeological find. She posted that one on Facebook.
We had tough time picking a place to eat. We showed them Tom Lee’s fine establishment but they declined. We ended up at a bar and grill, and the food was very good there. We sampled each other’s beer because we had asked for locally micro-brewed beers. They were all pretty good. I didn’t expect anything vegetarian in a bar and grill but they had a veggie sandwich and it was very good. Sometimes the most important thing a family can do is to be together, dine together, talk and hang out. On the way back to the car we passed a bar where the patrons were very involved in a playoff hockey game. The beloved Blackhawks were playing the Los Angeles Kings. I have no interest in hockey but I yelled into the bar, “GO KINGS!” just for kicks. Jeremy looked at me and laughed. Fortunately for us, the patrons either ignored me or didn’t hear me over the din in the bar.
Grace was our entertainment concierge and she proposed a play. She found Blue Man Group, which has been running in Chicago since 1997, and “Hair” the 1968 musical about the hippie movement from that era. Both sounded good to me I had no real preference, although I had my reservations about “Hair” because even 46 years after the fact I never bothered to find out what it was. To me even then it was a sign that the movement had been co-opted by the system. I figured—at the time and all those years afterward—that if it was something to put on Broadway it was going to be compromised. I didn’t care if it won awards or had four hits singles; it was what was called “commercial” at the time. I mean the artists that covered the big hit songs were fake, commercially manufactured pop groups like The Cowsills for instance had a hit with “Hair”, or pop-rock bands like Three Dog Night who struck gold with “Easy to be Hard.” There was also the fluffy soul-pop group 5th Dimension who blended two songs “Aquaris/Let the Sunshine In” and took the second half to church, and the one name, one hit wonder Oliver got to #3 on the charts with “Good Morning Starshine.” I had nothing against them, but I had no reason to take them seriously, not when there was Bob Dylan and The Beatles and all the hugely talent artists they inspired out there changing everything. In my mind whoever came up with “Hair” was more interested in making money off a legitimate social movement than in presenting the questions and issues raised in the movement.
Well, I was wrong. “Hair” has been through several revisions. It went from off-Broadway to Broadway to “Hair” the movie and 46 years later it was showing in North Chicago in a small theater with some might good acting and singing. The play, in this version of it anyway, was over two hours long and the issues presented were not glossed over or oversimplified or seen through rose-colored glasses. Not at all. The hippies didn’t agree on everything, and neither did the “straight” people. Everything was complicated and messy. And we have the opportunity to look at it, knowing the future, knowing both the blessings and consequences of the choices that were made in those tumultuous times.
Afterwards I thought they should have had a time to have a conversation. But it was after all, a play. Still though it caught me off guard and stirred a lot of feelings and thoughts. And I think that for those born after the late 60’s it was an opportunity to understand what was going on. It was nothing like anything that we expected. I know for sure Jeremy was caught off guard because he thought we were going to see “Hairspray.”
At dinner that night (I think it was the night of the bar and grill dinner—this essay is a lot of things but one thing it is not is sequential) we had a cross-generational conversation about the issues raised in the play. Those issues included war, the draft, societal obligations, faith, hope, truth and love. After dinner we went to a cupcake place. I went to a frozen yogurt shop and had that instead, thinking or hoping it might have less sugar than a cupcake. When I caught up with the other though I saw that they had divided one cupcake into four so it turned out that I probably had more sugar than anyone else. Would they have divided one cupcake into five though?
Most people don’t go to the movies when they’re on vacation, but we do. We’ve been to the movies in Maui, Santa Cruz, San Francisco, LA, and wherever else we’ve been. Some people say why go to the movies when you can do that at home, which is fair enough but we like it. We like seeing different theaters, and sometimes we see movies that, for whatever reason, didn’t come to Fresno. We saw a movie called “The Immigrant” in Chicago. It was in a suburb where Michael Jordan’s gated mansion is. Several people I met at Jeremy and Kelsey’s church mentioned Jordan’s mansion, mostly they told me it has number 23 on it and he’s selling it or it has already been sold. Also, they told me or I figured it out on my own that his Chicago suburb was a pretty ritzy one. I think it’s Highland Park and the price for the mansion is $16 million. So we went to the movies in MJ’s neighborhood, and that theater was no ordinary theater. There were only 30 seats and each one was a leather recliner. The popcorn was fresh and lightly salted. At one point Grace got so comfortable in her recliner she curled up and turned on her side and I was sure she fell asleep but she insists she did not. I sent a picture of our arrangement to my brother and he texted back “Available in LA. Comes with Dinner.” Don’t think I’d want to eat a meal in a recliner but it’s interesting how a new trend travels and now with cell phones everyone can report out to anyone the moment something reportable happens. Anyway we settled in—oh, and Kelsey had a glass of wine—and the previews began. The sound system was extraordinary by the way and all I could think was “this is probably what Jordan has in his mansion.” All for ten bucks, and the movie was very good.
We talked about the theme of forgiveness in the movie. The movie really wasn’t about the immigrant, it was about the man who abused or took advantage of her. I joked about renaming the movie, but really the idea of the power and importance of forgiveness really shone through. There were examples of forgiving those who were remorseful and forgiving those who didn’t think they had done anything wrong. This has been a point of contention among Armenians who debate forgiving the Turks for the genocide. Some say that forgiveness cannot happen unless the perpetrator of the sin is remorseful, while others say it can and should happen even without repentance. Although I understand the feelings of the former, I am with the latter group. I believe this even though it is the more difficult thing to do because Jesus left the example from the cross when He said, “Forgive them; they don’t know what they’re doing.” If Jesus left that example, no less is expected of us. I used to tell my students that forgiveness is the most powerful force in the universe. They would just look at me passively, not responding one way or another and I couldn’t read them, but I think some of them caught it and let it resonate.
Another thing I told my students over and over was who they were and how they were and why they were was Roosevelt. You see, some of them made fun of their own school, but what they needed to know was they were representatives of their school and their behavior was the impression of their school. In Chicago, it worked the same way. Everywhere we went there were ambassadors of the city. On the trains, theaters, stadium, the streets, the restaurants, museums—people had an openness and were considerate. When your youngest gets married and then they moved 2100 miles away, well you hope it’s a safe and comfortable place, and that they are well received wherever they go. When they first got married and were living in Studio City I thought, “Oh, they’re living in the Valley. That’s nice.” But they hated it. The people there thought everyone around them had some glaring deficiency. The people in their apartment complex would not speak to them. People in the restaurants had scripts in the works or were in need of a better agent, or were acting as if. Then they moved to South Pasadena and they loved living there. They were in one of the most gorgeous areas in Southern California and were walking distance to cute, nice restaurants. For a while it looked like Kelsey’s declaration, “We’ll go wherever God sends us, but NO SNOW!” was going to stand. But then they ended up in Chicago in and their first three months there happened to be the worst winter in that city’s history. As a parent there are some nights when you get into bed worrying and say, “Well Lord, you know what you’re doing,” and you hope and trust for the best, even when your kids are adults, you can’t help it. But having stayed in the city for 9 days and gone where they go and met the people they socialize with I have peace about where they are. The open spaces—even Downtown Chicago’s buildings seem generously spaced—and open hearts of the people are impressive. I am glad that they are friends with David and Margaret and their kids. They are kind, thoughtful, supportive, energetic, enthusiastic, considerate, generous, faithful, loving people you don’t imagine are around anymore. We had dinner at their house after the movie.
We had hamburgers, salad, and the best homemade apple pie I believe I’ve ever had. We sat in the backyard eating and talking, laughing and joking and telling stories. We ate watermelon. They had a fire pit and made a fire so big we had to move our chairs back a bit. The kids were funny, bright, polite, sociable and a joy to be around. They were fully alive and connected to the source. I sipped my beer and thought, “If this is Chicago, I wouldn’t mind living here at all.” Except for the snow. It makes that crunching noise when you walk on it. Overall though, Chicago seems to have held on to a part of the American ideal that other parts of the country have lost.
On the second Sunday we were in Chicago my white dress shirt was wrinkled and a little stale. I was going to do some laundry but didn’t get around to it and I figured I would wear something else, although I had no idea what. I rummaged through the clean shirts in the suitcase and found a black knit collarless shirt. I put it on with my grey coat and pants and I looked good enough. I looked like a guy pitching a script in Hollywood or an Armenian selling tires in Glendale, dressing up so you’d know he was the owner, except I didn’t have any gold chains or pinkie rings.
We sat together in church and it was like resting after a run. Attendance was down 50% from the Sunday before but that was Ordination Sunday and this was the week after, plus it was the day before Memorial Day and I remembered that Jeremy told me many of the families go out of town on Memorial Day weekend. Jeremy was calm. He was now officially the guy in charge, “Badveli” in Armenian, Reverend in English. He had been ordained, which is to say called to be set apart by God. I thought about this while sitting in church, and was thinking that we are all called to be set apart by God in some way or another but I guess ordained means called specifically for the purposes of serving the church, both the body of believers and literal physical, building church, which in this case was the Armenian Evangelical Church of Chicago or actually Mt. Prospect in the Greater Chicago area. I’ve been saying Jeremy and Kelsey’s church and in fact it is God’s church and they are pastors of it. I include Kelsey because while every pastor’s wife may have varying degrees of feeling inclined to be involved, I’m betting it will be something that comes naturally to her. “God is an overwhelming responsibility” Ian Andersen once said, and that element of entering people’s lives at a spiritual level and guiding or helping them somehow is a huge, serious responsibility, and it makes the job not just a job but a calling, a mission. I tell you, I considered being a minister at one point in my life. I was about 20 years old and thought about it for two or three weeks. It didn’t even take that long for me to realize that I had enough of a task just keep my own spiritual life on track, let alone leading a group of people on theirs. Besides, I did not want to learn Latin, Hebrew or Aramaic, and I didn’t want to decide on doctrinal things that may or may not have a final answer. I am proud of Jeremy, I hold him in high regard and I have much respect of his answering the call to ministry, and I know Kelsey will be right there with him, even as she is mapping out and traveling her own career journey.
On that second Sunday, all the other family and friends were already back home, back to their regular routines. I felt as though Grace and I were getting a look at what normal Sunday would look like for them. Jeremy’s sermon, like the one before it went something like this: All right, I have my arrows, here’s my bow, and over there, that’s the target. Now I draw back the bow and we let it fly. Bam! Well, that’s a bullseye. Now let’s sing the Armenian Lord’s Prayer. Amen and God bless you. Succinct. No wasted or repeated words because you are trusted with the responsibility to be paying attention the first time. Some sermons are like songs with a refrain or a chorus or both, and you get a phrase or an idea over and over and over. Not so with Jeremy. I’m convinced there will be a church full of people every Sunday who appreciate his approach.
After church was coffee hour. A man approached as if we knew each other. I forget introductions the way good pitchers forget a homerun they gave up just one pitch ago, so I wasn’t sure if I had already met him but the way he was walking toward me with that ah, there he is look, I tried to think of what his name might be.
“Are you Kelsey’s dad?”
“Yes, I sure am.”
“Ah, I saw your picture on Facebook. You like Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young?”
It was the picture Kelsey had posted of me holding up the Déjà vu album.
“Yes, that was one of my favorite albums.”
“Are you a musician?”
“No, I just really like music.”
“Oh, that’s right. You’re an engineer.”
“No, that’s my son.”
“Oh?”
“Yes. I’m a, I’m retired. I’m a, I was a high school English teacher.”
“Oh! I see. That’s great. Retired?”
“Yes.”
“Enjoying that?”
“Oh, yes. Get to listen to more music.”
“You like Dylan?”
“Yes, very much. I saw Dylan three times in fact.”
“Pfft. I’ve seen him 20 times.”
“Wow, that’s great. You win the been-to-see-Dylan contest!”
“Ha-ha. Yes. He’s great. You must like The Band too, of course.”
“The Band is one of my favorite groups of all time. They still sound good to me.”
“True. Do you know that next month I will be going with a friend to Hibbing, Minnesota?”
“You’re going to Abe’s Hardware store? I think Abe Zimmerman is dead.”
“The hardware store is still there.”
“And there’s Dylan’s high school.”
“Right.”
“A pilgrimage.”
“Exactly. Yesterday was his birthday, you know.”
“Oh I forgot. Let’s see, that makes him 73.”
“And still touring.”
“Yes, but I saw him last year at the Hollywood Bowl. The touring band was aces but his voice was shot.”
“I saw him here on that tour. Are you talking about the one Mark Knopfler opened?”
“Yeah. Knopfler was lights out. Great band. Dylan though. I mean, people were actually walking out. Walking out on Bob Dylan.”
“Knopfler was fantastic. Dylan was too. You should join us.”
“On the pilgrimage to Hibbing?”
“Yes.”
“Well, much as I have enjoyed Chicago I don’t think I would be able to stay another month. But next year I will come back to visit Kelsey and Jeremy and I will join you on your second pilgrimage.”
“Really?”
“It would be great. I’m sending you and your friend out next month like scouts, and then the second trip you will be better informed.”
“Yes. It will be great. I’m looking forward to the second trip as much as the first.”
“That’s really cool.”
We talked more. He invited us to go hear a live cover band that afternoon, but we already had plans. He didn’t look like a rock enthusiast, but at this point none of us in the baby-boomer age bracket look like rock fans, and neither do our rock heros look like rock gods. But that is just one of life’s tougher verities. Suddenly you don’t like looking at really old pictures as much. The race goes to the swift and the swift are always young.
The first Sunday was a long day. We went to church then had a luncheon, and then had the ordination ceremony. But while it was a long day, it was not a tedious day, not at all. It was eventful and there was nothing to leave out. Jeremy’s sermon was on point, while Kelsey’s sat in the last row of the church point the lyrics to the hymns on the screen before us and finding the appropriate musical accompaniment from her laptop. It’s a small church. No choir, no pianist, no secretary. But the facilities—the church and the social hall are less than 10 years old, very well designed and appointed and there is a future there and a determination to go forward. I spoke to a woman after the luncheon.
“We’re so glad to have Jeremy and Kelsey.”
“Well, I miss them but they are happy to be here.”
“We believe they are the right people for our church.”
“I also feel they are in the right place at the right time.”
“All in God’s hands.”
“Yes, that’s true,” I said, my heart overjoyed that all the pieces were in the right place.
“It’s time to move forward.”
“I have felt that here from many people.”
“A few people though…”
“Sometimes people get stuck.”
“Yes. There are stuck.”
“They face backward, not forward.”
“Amen. That’s so true.”
“But I believe there are enough people here who want to move forward to make that happen.”
“Yes, there is,” she said, nodding her head.
“All the pieces are in place.”
“You’re right. That’s so true.”
“I’m glad I talked to you. Now I know that the congregation and Jeremy and Kelsey have the same vision.”
“Yes. Thank you. It’s a pleasure meeting. We are definitely in agreement.”
I walked away feeling pretty good but then I remembered I hadn’t even asked what her name was. Still though the conversation gave me a good feeling about how things are going there. Our trip to Chicago was a success in every way, on every level. Ok, I did overcook the barbecued chicken for a get together Jeremy and Kelsey hosted but only by a few minutes, and it took me forever to do it because the coals went out. But other than that the soiree was a hit and so was the previous one when they had pizza and salad the first night we were there. And there was another get together when Marina, a dear friend who has love for all and treats everyone like family and in fact in related to Grace somehow or another and is an encourager and a real-life cheerleader, made sure that there was wine and food where friends and family became one and the same. On that night, or one of them, I met a man who makes documentaries and was very knowledgeable about the history of the Armenians arriving at and living in the Boston area. He had that manic energy that many of my Armenian brothers have. It’s an urgency that things have to be done, that the past has to be respected and recorded, that the truth must be told, and every detail and remembrance is important. Always admired brothers like that and sisters like Marina, too. And this is my story of love, truth and details. Chicago’s nice and life’s good my friends, and that’s the short and long of it.